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Everything you need to know about the round brilliant cut.
Pear Cut FAQs
What is a pear cut diamond?
A pear cut (sometimes called a teardrop) is a brilliant cut diamond combining the rounded curve of an oval at one end with a tapered point at the other. The shape features 58 facets and produces strong fire and brilliance, similar to round brilliant and oval. Pear cuts originated in the 15th century, attributed to Flemish gem cutter Lodewyk van Bercken, making them one of the oldest diamond cuts still in production today. Currently popular in celebrity engagement rings, the pear has become one of the fastest growing shapes for modern proposals.
Should the pear point face up toward the hand or down toward the wrist?
Both orientations are correct and both have historical precedent. Point up (toward the fingertip) is the most common modern orientation, producing a longer, more flattering finger line. Point down (toward the wrist) is the traditional orientation, often seen in vintage pieces and royal engagement rings, and creates the impression of an elongated, more slender finger. Our designer walks clients through both options during consultation and helps decide based on hand shape and personal preference. The choice is entirely yours and there is no rule.
What is the ideal length to width ratio for a pear cut?
The classic range for pear cut diamonds is 1.50 to 1.75, with 1.55 to 1.60 representing the most balanced and widely admired proportion. A ratio below 1.50 produces a stubby pear that loses its signature elegance, while a ratio above 1.75 produces an elongated pear that can read as overly slender. Personal preference is the deciding factor, but understanding the proportion before stone selection ensures you choose deliberately rather than ending up with a ratio that does not flatter your hand.
How important is symmetry for a pear cut?
Symmetry is more important for pear than for almost any other shape. The two sides of the pear must mirror each other exactly, the rounded end must be smoothly curved without flat spots, and the point must align directly with the centre of the curve at the opposite end. Even small asymmetry is visible to the naked eye in a pear cut and cannot be hidden by a setting. Our gemologist reviews symmetry on every shortlisted pear under the loupe before presenting to a client, and we do not present stones with visible symmetry flaws regardless of how the certificate grades.
What setting style best protects a pear's pointed tip?
The point of a pear is the most vulnerable feature on any diamond shape, comparable to the corners of a princess cut, and it requires a V claw (chevron prong) for protection. Standard claw settings with a single prong at the tip leave the point exposed to chipping and are not recommended for daily wear. V claw settings cradle the point on both sides, distributing impact away from the tip. Bezel and half bezel settings around the point also work beautifully and produce a particularly modern silhouette. Hidden halo settings, three stone arrangements, and solitaire cathedrals all pair well with a pear centre when the tip is properly protected.
What is the bow tie effect on a pear and how is it managed?
The bow tie is a dark shadow across the centre of a pear cut, caused by light leakage through the pavilion at angles that fail to return light to the eye. Every pear has some bow tie, but well cut pears show only a faint shadow that disappears under most lighting. Poorly cut pears show a heavy, persistent bow tie visible under any condition. The bow tie is not graded on any certificate, which is why personal expert review of the stone matters more for pear than for shapes like round brilliant. Our gemologist examines bow tie performance in daylight on every shortlisted pear before it reaches a client.
Does VYOR offer pear engagement rings in moissanite?
Yes. Every VYOR design is available in lab grown diamond or D colour, VVS1 clarity moissanite. D VVS1 is the highest commercially available moissanite grade and the only grade VYOR offers, with no exceptions. Pear cut moissanite delivers the same elegant silhouette as a lab grown diamond pear at a significantly lower price point, making it an excellent choice for clients seeking a larger stone within a particular budget. Our gemologist walks through the visual and gemological differences between the two materials during consultation.
Are pear cut engagement rings durable for everyday wear?
Pear cut engagement rings are durable for daily wear when the point is properly protected by a V claw or bezel setting. Without point protection, the tip is vulnerable to chipping if struck against a hard surface. Beyond the point, the rest of the pear (the rounded end and the curved sides) is as durable as any other diamond shape, with full 10 Mohs hardness for lab grown diamond and 9.25 Mohs hardness for moissanite. Our designer guides every client toward setting choices that match their lifestyle, ensuring the ring is built for a lifetime of wear.
Custom Pear Cut Engagement Rings at VYOR
The pear cut combines the curved softness of an oval with the elegant taper of a marquise, producing one of the most romantic and recognisable engagement ring shapes in fine jewellery. At VYOR, every pear cut engagement ring is designed in Perth, set with a GIA or IGI certified lab grown diamond personally reviewed by our gemologist, or with D VVS1 moissanite, and finished in Western Australia by our team of senior master jewellers.
Pear is the most flattering shape on the hand. The elongated outline creates the visual impression of a longer, more slender finger, the brilliant cut faceting returns strong fire and scintillation, and the asymmetric profile reads as both contemporary and romantically distinctive. Pear has been a quietly traditional shape for centuries and an increasingly visible modern choice over the past decade, particularly following celebrity adoption.
Every signature design in our pear collection is available in lab grown diamond or D VVS1 moissanite, and in 18k white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum. If your vision sits outside the existing collection, our design team creates custom pear engagement rings from scratch alongside you, with the same three to five week delivery timeframe.
Curated by Our Gemologist, Designed by Our Designer
Every VYOR consultation is led personally by the founders. Our gemologist, Joseph, reviews every shortlisted pear diamond himself. For pear specifically, this means examining symmetry across the two sides under the loupe, evaluating bow tie performance in daylight conditions, confirming the curve at the rounded end is smooth without flat spots, and verifying the point aligns precisely with the centre of the curve at the opposite end. Pear is the shape where asymmetry is most visible to the naked eye, so expert physical review of the stone matters more for pear than for almost any other cut.
Our designer, Nikolett, directs every setting decision and every aesthetic choice in the studio. For pear, she works with you on the orientation (point up toward the fingertip, or point down toward the wrist), the V claw or bezel configuration that protects the tip, the length to width ratio for your hand, and the relationship between the pear's curve and the prong arrangement. The right setting for a pear is one that protects the tip without distracting from the silhouette.
Read more about the founders on our About page.
How to Choose a Pear Cut Diamond, A Gemologist's Guide
Pear is one of the most beautiful but technically demanding shapes in fine jewellery, and one of the most rewarding to buy well. GIA and IGI do not issue a true cut grade for pear, so the certificate alone is not sufficient. Five things our gemologist looks at on every pear at VYOR.
Symmetry
The two sides of the pear must mirror each other precisely. The rounded end must be smoothly curved without any flat sections, the point must align directly with the centre of the curve at the opposite end, and the long curved sides must form an unbroken arc on each side. Even minor asymmetry is visible to the naked eye in pear and impossible to hide in a setting. We review symmetry under the loupe on every shortlisted stone before presenting.
Bow tie performance
Like oval, every pear has some degree of bow tie shadow across the centre. The difference between a well cut pear and a poorly cut pear is dramatic. We examine every shortlisted stone in daylight conditions, not under jeweller's lighting, to confirm the bow tie is faint enough to disappear in normal wear. Stones with severe bow tie are not presented to clients.
Length to width ratio
The classic pear range is 1.50 to 1.75, with 1.55 to 1.60 producing the most balanced proportion. Below 1.50 the stone reads stubby and loses elegance; above 1.75 it reads overly slender and can appear fragile. The right ratio for the wearer's hand is part of the consultation, and knowing your preference before stone selection saves time and protects against compromise.
Depth percentage
A well cut pear sits at 58% to 62% depth. Above 65%, the stone hides weight inside the ring rather than spreading face up. Below 56%, the stone can lose light return and appear glassy. The certificate lists depth percentage clearly and it is one of the first numbers our gemologist reviews on any pear report.
Colour, the VYOR D to G standard
VYOR works with D, E, F, and G colour exclusively for pear. The pointed end of a pear shows colour more visibly than the rounded end, similar to how oval tips show colour, because the tapered facets retain more light without dispersing it across the stone. Within the D to G range, pear faces up consistently colourless under any light condition. We do not stock colour grades below G, and on clarity we hold the brand floor at VS1 and above, ensuring no inclusions are visible to the naked eye in any pear we sell.
These are the five factors our gemologist walks through in every consultation. The certificate is the starting point, not the conclusion.
The VYOR Process
Every VYOR custom engagement ring follows the same four stage process.
Consultation
A private 45 minute session at our Wembley showroom in Perth, or a 30 minute secure video call for clients anywhere in Australia. You meet both founders. Our gemologist walks through stone options, certificate review, and the gemological criteria specific to pear (symmetry, bow tie, ratio, depth). Our designer discusses setting direction, point orientation, and aesthetic choices for the wearer. Together the founders present a curated shortlist of certified stones in your carat and budget range.
Design
Once your stone and setting direction are confirmed, our design team produces a detailed 3D CAD model of your ring. You review and approve every element (band width, stone height, prong style, V claw configuration, finish, metal) before crafting begins.
Crafting
Your ring is finished in Perth by our team of senior master jewellers, using 100% recycled gold or platinum. Most custom pear engagement rings are completed within three to five weeks of design approval, faster than the Australian industry standard of six to eight weeks.
Delivery
Your finished ring is presented in person at the Wembley showroom, or dispatched anywhere in Australia by fully insured express courier with signature on delivery.
The VYOR Difference
Every VYOR engagement ring is built on the same eight commitments, regardless of shape, setting, or stone.
Australia Wide Express Shipping
Free, fully insured express delivery to Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, and every Australian regional postcode. Every order ships from Perth with signature on delivery, at no cost.
Complimentary Ring Resizing
Free resizing on every VYOR engagement ring within the first 60 days, ensuring a perfect fit whether you have chosen a custom design or a Ready to Ship piece. Resizing beyond 60 days is available at cost.
Lifetime Manufacturing Warranty
Every VYOR engagement ring carries a lifetime manufacturing warranty against defects in materials or workmanship, giving you complete peace of mind that your ring is crafted to last for generations.
Custom Ring Design Service
From signature collection adjustments to fully bespoke pieces, our designer creates one of a kind engagement rings that reflect your story, with concept to completion managed in house in our Wembley studio.
Designed and Crafted in Perth, Western Australia
Every ring is designed in our studio and finished by hand by senior master jewellers, never mass produced and never finished offshore. Australian craftsmanship from first sketch to final polish.
Conflict Free Lab Grown Stones
Every diamond and moissanite at VYOR is lab grown and conflict free, with GIA or IGI certification on every lab grown diamond and D VVS1 specification on every moissanite, no exceptions.
Recycled Gold and Platinum
Every ring is crafted in 100% recycled 18k gold or platinum, supporting responsible material sourcing and reducing the environmental impact of new metal mining.
Consultations with Our Founders
Every consultation is led personally by VYOR's gemologist and designer, never by a sales team, ensuring expert guidance from the people who set the brand's standards.
Where We Serve
VYOR's showroom is located in Wembley, Perth, Western Australia, and we deliver custom pear engagement rings to clients across the country, including Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Canberra, Hobart, Darwin, and every regional postcode. For interstate clients, our private virtual consultation by secure video offers the same experience as visiting the Wembley showroom in person. All Australia wide orders ship free, fully insured, and express, with signature on delivery.
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